Fashion has embraced a decidedly more sensual aesthetic. While this trend typically emerges in spring, it's especially pronounced this year. Runways are spotlighting vintage-inspired pieces, such as 1950s cone bras and Victorian-era elements like hoop skirts and pantaloons. Nadège Vanhée of Hermès shares this inclination: “What I aim to express is a sense of assertive sensuality,” she remarked. “It’s about celebrating summer, feeling good, and connecting with your skin.” However, Vanhée isn't nostalgically fixated on past styles. Instead, she's envisioning how to infuse a luxurious touch into the sheer trend and how Hermès clients might integrate these looks with her signature leather pieces.

Vanhée’s latest collection featured sheer mesh, expertly tailored into fluid pants with zippers along the sides that can be undone to transform the silhouette into a maxi skirt if desired. Merging lightness and durability, she complemented these pants with leather jackets as thin as cotton. Some were cropped and worn open over a bra top, while others were styled as anoraks, belted at the waist. These designs drew inspiration from activewear, embodying a casual, relaxed attitude.

Her emphasis on comfort and self-confidence was particularly impactful, as she was among the few designers in Paris this season to showcase models of diverse sizes. This inclusivity stood in stark contrast to many others who frustratingly continued to favor the size-0 aesthetic.

Vanhée captured the essence of summer's desired lightness by incorporating Hermès’s iconic silk twill scarves—both block- and screen-printed—into her breezy creations. She showcased garments like a shirtdress with leather shoulders and a short romper, exuding effortless elegance. A woven leather dress and an embroidered mesh piece echoed the scarves' graphic patterns. With the exception of a few fuchsia designs, the collection predominantly featured warm neutral shades, reminiscent of sunbaked hues. Anchoring these vacation-ready outfits was Vanhée’s signature impeccable footwear: sleek, sophisticated riding boots and playful yet practical clog sandals.

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